Beta

Andamans - a land of brutal beauty

We were now on the last leg of our journey as we headed forthe Andamans flying infrom Calcutta. Despite being told that the booking was full, we found many empty seats in the aircraft. Later we were told that they never took the full plane load because of the wind factor. The flight took just 2 hours toreach Port Blair.

The island isnamed after the East India Companies' Lt. Archibald Blair who occupied the Andamans in 1789 to keep his ships safe and protected in the rains as a safe harbour and as a penal settlement for prisoners. After the uprising in 1857 in Indiait was used as a place of exile for the freedom fighters by the British. It is not known how many thousands of freedom fighters were sent to the Andamans from the harbours of Bombay, Kolkata and Madras (now Chennai). Their numbers, names and addresses are not known. It is said that all records were burnt when the Japanese occupied the Andamans.

The morning was free so we headed straight for the Cellular Jail.

The Cellular Jail was constructed in the shape of a star fish having 7 radial wings. Of these only Wing Nos. 1, 6 and 7 are still intact, the remaining being allegedly destroyed by the Japanese who occupied the island between 1943 and 1945.

The construction of the Cellular Jail was completed in 10 years in 2006. Before that the political prisoners were kept in various other islands. These includied the Viper Island, the Ross Island, etc.,which wevisited later. Many died because of the torture andinhuman living conditions. Close to 70 prisoners were executed by hanging in the Cellular Jail.

So, naturally one feltsad at the brutality of life on this island for the freedom fighters. At the same time tales of their indominatable spirit in the face of all odds was very inspiring and soul lifting.

This gelled very well with the savage and at the same time serene beauty of the island.

The Jail was made into a National Memorial in 1979.

The Jail from outside.

A model of the jail with its 7 wings in the shape of a starfish. There are photos of some of the prisonersin the background.

This is the Central Tower of the Jail where the guards kept a vigil on the prisoners. By turning around they could survey all the seven wings.

Wing No. 1 to the left and Wing No.7 to the right - 2 of the 3 wings that have survived out of a total of 7.

Instruments of torture.

A view of the jail from inside.

It was broad daylight. There were many trees with colourful blossoms.

The birds chirped cheerfully.

But even thenonesenseda pall of darkness. It was almost like a dark ugly stain that refused to be rubbed away.

What lifted the spirits was the following quoteat the entrance of the Museum.

In the afternoon we headed for the Viper Island. On the wayto the islandI was totally mesmerised by the interplay of the sun, the sea, the clouds, the light, the shadows, the water that danced in ripples all around. Who could have thought that this beauty masked the sombre destinationwe were heading for.